J.R. Snider Before & After Photos

A 5 year old Lowe's softener is not working and she'd like to install a new one. Another company told her all the existing WT equipment was all installed backwards.

Arrived to perform a Water Treatment Service on a 1044 AOS Softener, am also to completely empty and clean Brine Tank. Clean salt will be saved and dirty salt thrown away. New salt will be added to fill Brine tank.
          Began by discussing scope of work with customer and presented estimate for service that was accepted by customer. Water was tested upon arrival for Hardness. Results below. Softener was bypassed and depressurized. Unit valve head was taken apart. Seal stack was in good condition and so was cleaned and lubed. Drive cap assembly was cleaned and lubed. Water meter assembly was inspected and in working order. Injector cap was removed. White Injector was found to be partially clogged and so was swapped out. Injector housing, cap, and screen were thoroughly cleaned. Unit valve head was put back together. Brine tank was completely emptied. Float assembly and cylinder were removed and thoroughly cleaned. Brine tank was put back together and filled with saved salt and new salt. (200Lbs per service). Water was turned on to unit to begin REGEN cycle. Unit was sent into its REGEN cycle and allowed to complete a fill REGEN. Float assembly and Brine line were pressure tested during Fill and Draw cycles. No leaks appeared. Water was tested post service for Hardness, Iron, PH, and Chlorine. 

Installed new 1054 care soft softener, installed next to the water heater, came off pressure tank with new fittings in 1” cocci and ran about 20 ft out of crawl space and back. Ran drain through wall into crawl space into air gap tied into 2” pvc drain line. Filled and ran through cycles to ensure media is rinsed. Put into service set to regen tonight. Added 6 bags of salt to brine tank. No leaks present.

Installed UV & pre filter. Installed in crawlspace directly after softener, with service valves. Added chlorine to filter sump and ran through all lines in house until tested positive at all fixtures. Removed sump and cleaned and added filter to sump. Put sump under pressure, no leaks present.

Came out because homeowner was stating they were getting low water pressure on the hot side. Also they wanted estimates for anode rod replacements for water heater which I recommended last time I was out. Met with homeowner upon arrival and she stated they were getting little to no water to the dishwasher and washing machine. Took a look underneath the kitchen sink and the hot side valve for the dishwasher was shut off so I turned it back on. Explained this to homeowner and I also explained that if they are still having issues with the dishwasher then most likely it is an issue with the appliance itself.

Went over to the washing machine and looked over the appliance located the hot side valve and it was mostly open but still had a few turns left on it so I turned it all the way until it stopped. Explained this to homeowner and like the dishwasher if they have the same issue like before then most likely it is an issue with the appliance.

Got estimates from Mike to replace both anode rods on the water heater. One estimate for electric anode rods and one for standard aluminum anode rods. Explained to homeowner that the hot side sulfur smell is due to the anode rod reacting to the water. So therefore the rods need replaced.

Toilet in bathroom is old and not working properly; possible leak coming from shower.